July 16th to July 20th, 2015.
**NB**: Because of the number of photos to upload, I did a narrative first, and a photo gallery at the end, in support of the narrative. Remember, you can click on the images to get a larger image.
This sign pretty much sums up this 50+ kilometer hiking adventure at the northwest tip of Vancouver Island- 8 hours from Victoria and 12 hours from Kelowna - and WAY further north than Tofino!!
Cape Scott Lighthouse is located on the northwest tip of Vancouver Island. I had a bucket list item for my 65th birthday to hike the West Coast Trail. Finally, at the age of 67, I managed to do a West Coast Trail, but this one is located 8 hours north of the more well known West Coast Trail.
Here is a link with helpful information about the location of the Cape Scott Park and Trail:
http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/cape_scott/
This hike took four days to complete.
Day 1- July 16th:
Patti, Tom & I met Janine and Keith at Nahwitti Lake, located on a gravel forestry road about 30 minutes west of Port Hardy. The lake has a very nice campground. We met at about 7:00pm, set up camp, and had a good visit. It was early to bed, and early to rise for our drive to the trailhead for our hike to the Cape Scott Lighthouse.
Day 2- July 17th:
We had a fantastic breakfast of scrambled eggs- prepared by Master Camping Chef, Patti- and it was off to the trailhead. We departed Nahwitti Lake at about 9:30 am. From there, it was about a 45 minute drive over a forestry road that gradually deteriorated to basically a one lane dirt road, when we finally got to the trailhead. It was a cloudy, cool day- temperature was about 16 degrees- which was a nice reprieve from the Okanagan heat.
We trekked 18 kms the first day. We passed through rugged old growth forests, and along the way came across lakes and inlets.
We also passed through an old settlement, which is carefully preserved (see photo gallery for a descriptive signpost). The Canadian Government, around 1900, offered free land in this area, which was eventually claimed by some Danish settlers. Unfortunately, due to harsh conditions, the settlement was abandoned around 1930, but some of the artifacts from the settlement remain, including grave sites, a kitchen, and a rusted out old tractor.
We also passed by Hansens Meadow (see photograph gallery) and Tom commented that it would be a great place for Rhonda & Leo to set up a homestead. There was acres of hip high grass in the meadow that their cattle would love to munch on! If anyone could tame this rugged coastal area it would be Leo and Rhonda!
We finally reached the Pacific Ocean, at a beach called Nels Bight, where we set up camp. We left the trailhead at about 10:30 am and arrived at the beach at about 6:30 pm. After our 8 hour hike, with each of us carrying 30-40 pounds of supplies and camping gear in our back packs, the beach was a welcome sight.
We picked out a patch of sand and set up camp on the beach. See the photo gallery that follows this narrative. Remember to click on the images to enlarge them.
Once we got settled, we probably put on another couple of kilometers exploring Nels Bight beach. The clouds cleared and we had a beautiful sunset. We were early to bed, but not until we had the surprise that Tom and Patti brought in their supplies- Grand Marnier!!- which we had with our coffees.
Day 3- July 18th:
We got up early and had a hearty breakfast of porridge prepared by Master Camp Chef Patti, before heading out to Cape Scott Lighthouse.
On the way to the lighthouse we walked through old growth forests.
Along the way, the trail led us to some beautiful beaches on the Coast. The forest trail led to the beaches, and then we hiked along the beaches, and then back into the forest again.
The first beach was named Experiment Beach where we observed large waves crashing into rock outcroppings on the beach. Keith did some beach combing and found some interesting debris on the beach, much of it with Japanese writing on them, which likely washed up on shore after being tossed out into the ocean following the tsunami of a few years ago.
It was then back into the forest, which eventually let us to my favorite beach at Guise Bay (see the photo gallery that follows this blog).
After exploring the beaches, we headed up rough trail up the hill to the Cape Scott Lighthouse (see photo gallery that follows).
After exploring the beaches and the lighthouse, it was back to our campsite, where Master Chef Patti cooked up an amazing pasta, with sun dried tomatoes, bacon and sausage which was mouth watering and amazing.
Keith and Janine said it was much better than their usual camping fare of rice cakes with peanut butter on top that they usually have 3 times a day when they go camping!!
On Day 2, we hiked at least another 12 kms trekking to the lighthouse, exploring the beaches and back to Nels Bight and our camp site.
On the Day 2 hike, Keith found an almost perfect Styrofoam buoy that had come off a boat and been washed up on one of the beaches. One of the things that backpackers have done over the years in this park, is to hang debris that they find on the beaches, at the trailheads that meet the beaches, to identify where the trail enters the forested areas. Hikers personalize their debris by writing or carving their names and a date on the debris as a memorial of their visit to the park.
In the photo gallery are photos of Keiths creation- which we think is now the most prominent, and nicest memorial, at Nels Bight. Cannot believe that Patti actually brought a felt marker in her supplies, which allowed Keith to do his thing!
**Whale sighting- Whale sighting**
Just before dinner- Janine was looking out at the Pacific, and shouted out- !Whale!
Sure enough- we all saw the whales blowing air- and then we saw the magnificent sight of a whale coming out of the water and showing us his or her tail!! What a great way to end our day!!
Another great sunset this evening, which is highly unusual for the North Coast- as it normally rains there 50% of the time. We had sunny skies all day, and it was a very warm and fabulous day.
Day 4- July 20:
On Day 4- sadly- it was time to hike back out to the trailhead, and start our trek back to civilization.
No need to repeat that Patti cooked up another fabulous breakfast- before we took down the camp site- and packed our back packs for our return trip.
The 18 kilometer hike out for this old geezer almost did me in! I could not wait to drop my back pack and take off my hiking boots to check out my blisters!
We started hiking out at about 8:45 am, and got to the trailhead about 3:30.
At our Nels Bight camp spot, we chatted with our next door neighbor, and she suggested we stop in the small logging town of Holberg, and check out The Scarlet Ibis Pub and Restaurant. Patti needed a break from her cooking duties, so we stopped in at the Ibis, and we had a few pints of beer and Patti enjoyed some wine- and we had a very good feast. Most of us had fish and chips- reasonably priced- and three servings of fish!
Janine ordered a fabulous cake- and 5 spoons- for a great dessert- which was not on the menu at the camp site!
I spoke to the young lady who served us. She told me there are actually only 50 permanent residents in this small community. Most of the loggers drive in from Port Hardy and stay at a small apartment building in the town for the week.
She said the summer months are a very busy season for them. They serve a lot of backpackers who do the Cape Scott Trail during the summer months. They get visitors from around the world who stop in for a beer and a meal before and after their adventure!
They also had off sale liquor sales- and we bought a case of beer to celebrate our final night of camping. We got back to the Nahwitti Lake campsite at about 7:30, set up our tents, and headed down to the lake where we had a final visit and shared a few laughs, finished the beer and watched Keith get skunked (again) on his attempt to catch a fish!
Day 5- July 20th:
Up by 6:15, and said quick good byes to Janine and Keith- and we were off to Nanaimo to catch the ferry- and after packing up we left the campground around 7am. Rumor has it I slept (and snored) for about 4 hours on our 5 hour drive to Nanaimo.
We caught the 12:50 ferry and got home to Kelowna at about 7:30pm.
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Mileage we hiked:
* Day 1- 18 kms
* Day 2- 12 kms
* Day 3- 18 kms
* Beach exploring- 5 kms (minimum)
Total: 53 kms
Total hiking time: at least 25 hours
Difficulty- moderate (mostly) to strenuous (small sections):
There are not many hills, but the trail was muddy in places, and there are a lot of roots on the trail, and good hiking boots are a necessity. A lot of the time, your foot is not landing on the surface of the ground, but on roots or planks laid in the trail to prevent erosion in these rain forests (like a rail bed- but no rails). The balls of my feet were very tender and sore.
Other comments:
It is a long hike (18 kms) before you get to the ocean beaches.
Water is a necessity. Thank goodness Keith brought his water purifier (ultra violet light thingy) that allowed us to draw water from a stream and treat it (takes about 90 seconds for a 1 liter water container) and consume it with no worries about getting ill.
There are cougars, wolves, bears and elk in the park. We had two containers of bear spray.
No dogs are allowed on the trail as there have been too many interactions with wild animals.
We did manage to have an interaction with a deer on our camping beach. See the photo gallery.
This was my first back packing hike. Thank goodness I was with experienced back packers. This hike is not for novices or first timers. An excellent, and much cheaper, alternative to the West Coast Trail.
Photo gallery:
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Day 1:
Let the adventure begin!
All of this ended up on the backs of Patti, Tom & Don!
Lots of old growth forest. Mostly red cedar and Sitka spruce.
The bridges across the streams on the hike are actually trees that have fallen. Lunch break!
The sign describing the Danish settlement, and photos of some of the artifacts and remains at the settlement.
Future location of LaMotte Ranch......hmmmmm!
We made it! Sign welcoming us to Nels Bight Beach after 18 km hike!
Our campsite!
Don wins the bocce tournament!
How about this sunset! Wow- just wow!
Day 2:
We had our only interaction with wildlife as we set out on our hike to Cape Scott Lighthouse.
Just getting drinking water from a stream for our hike to the lighthouse.
On the trail leading us to the lighthouse- through an old growth forest.
Trail ends and heads onto Experiment Beach.
Off of Experiment Beach and back into the forest.
My favorite! Guise Bay & beach!
Back into the forest for a tough hike up to the Lighthouse.
After a round trip hike of about 10 kms to and from the lighthouse, we are back at the campsite, and here are some photos of camp life.
Another amazing sunset!
Packed up and heading out, and a photo of the memorial that Keith created and hung at the end of the trail that empties onto our camp spot at Nels Bight.
Tom and his mushroom hat!
Unfortunately, this is the last photo I took. I was just too frigging worn out, and when I got to the trailhead, I managed to misplace my camera (I stuffed it in my hiking boot!) and did not find it until we were on the ferry ride home. It was another sunny day as we approached Horseshoe Bay.
Memory banks are full of great images. It was a tough hike for my first backpacking adventure, and I thank Patti, Tom, Janinie & Keith for making my first trek a memorable one!
